Serendipity, Hydra, Cohen…

The mesmerising island of Hydra, Greece, is where the late Canadian legend met his muse, Marianne. Could it be just chance that we landed on this paradise a few days after Marianne’s death, and a few months before Cohen’s?
Donkeys. Lots of donkeys.” That’s what my friend said first about the island of Hydra. “The rest just walk it. This is the only ‘no vehicle’ island in Greece, and it’s picture-perfect,” exclaimed our feet-on-wheels friend with an energy that can only be matched by a building tornado.That was enough to convince the other two lazy ones to decide on a day-long visit to Ee-dhr-aa (that’s how the Greeks pronounce it) – an island with the most fascinating history and love story, which was a two-hour ferry ride on the Aegean, from the port of Piraeus (Athens).
Universe conspires
The plan was pretty simple for three women on a Mediterranean sojourn. Just Greece. Tick off a few islands off the bucket list (Santorini, Mykonos), then go to Athens. With five days to explore the Greek capital, Hydra made it to our itinerary at the dusk of our tour. Looking back, it seems the universe conspired to get us better acquainted with the term ‘serendipity’ on this trip.
At Athens, sitting in the beautiful balcony of our Airbnb, I finally decided to do some of my own research on the island. Tap went the finger on the phone, the links on Hydra showed up; but before I could open them, my eyes got fixed on a news item. It said, “Leonard Cohen’s muse, Marianne Ihlen, immortalised in the song, So Long, Marianne, dies”. Upon opening the link, I learned that it was on the island of Hydra in the early 1960s, where Cohen, the Canadian singer, poet, songwriter, had set eyes on the Norwegian beauty for the first time.
An immortal love story
The article talked about the letter that 82-year-old Cohen had just written as a tribute to her, as he learned of her failing health a few days ago. The letter said, “Well Marianne, it’s come to this time when we are really so old and our
bodies are falling apart, and I think I will follow you very soon. Know that I am so close behind you that if you stretch out your hand, I think you can reach mine.”
We’ll come back to serendipity in a while. Back to Hydra. The feet-on-wheels friend decided to explore as much as she could within 20 minutes of reaching the mesmerising island, sitting calmly surrounded by the Aegean in all its blue splendour. The island isn’t too big if you decide to stay for a day or two, or more. Just a day would be too little but still worth every minute. Sitting at one of the many cafés dotting the promenade, Cohen and wine both took their desired effect. The free-flowing conversations followed long sighs in silence as five hours flew by. The tattle and clanks were drowned in the sound of the sea... thoughts of loves lost long ago, dreams that lie ahead filled our minds as we realised once Hydra takes over you, you don’t have much choice but to surrender. Much like what happens
to you when you fall in love, like Cohen did with Ihlen.
As destiny goes...
Could she have known that a chance encounter on a tiny Greek island which she had come to with her then husband, would make her immortal? Could it be coincidence or was it my destiny to visit Hydra just two days after learning the news of Ihlen’s death, the muse of the singer I had admired — or obsessed with as school friends would put it — since hitting the teens?
About three months later, as Cohen followed Ihlen on his final journey just as he had promised in his letter, I realised that some journeys are just meant to be – friendship, love, life, or Greece, it doesn’t matter how long or how short. Whether it’s the deep, blue Aegean or the sea within, a journey fated will be a journey worth the while. Like Cohen had said in an interview to New York Times, “All these things have their own destiny; one has one’s own destiny. The older I get, the surer I am that I’m not running the show.”
Norwegian expatriate Marianne Ihlen (left) holds her son, Axel Jensen Jr, on her lap as friends watch, at Hydra, Greece, October 1960. Pictured (from second left) Canadian poet, author, and musician Leonard Cohen; unidentified man; Australian authors George Johnston and Charmian Clift. Cohen had bought a house on the island earlier in the year, while the others were established residents. Marianne inspired a number of Cohen’s songs and poems
Hydra 101
Where is it: Hydra is one of the Saronic Islands of Greece (closest to mainland, Athens)
How to go: Ferry
Piraeus, in Athens, is the nearest port
How long does it take: A little over an hour or two, depending on the ferry you choose. Tickets can be booked ahead, online
Ticket price: Rs 1,435 (return) per person in July
PS: July is the most expensive month, May is the cheapest
Mode of transport: Mules, donkeys, horse or foot. No vehicles allowed except bicycles
What can you do: Hike, walk, swim admire architecture, natural beauty, or do nothing – perfect for romantics
What to eat: Mostly European cuisine and traditional Greek favourites
Hydra is an island in Greece where vehicles are not allowed. You can ride a mule or walk to visit churches, monasteries or a lighthouse